Tavoro Waterfalls, Fiji

On September 20th, while in Waitabu, Taveuni, the IENK class took a trip to the Tavoro Waterfalls. The falls are located in the Bouma National Heritage Park and are home to three beautiful waterfalls, all located on different altitude levels. We began our walk down a long stretched valley, the path covered in grass and occasional rocks, and scattered trees around us. The sun was shining, lighting up the entire area and making it look as if the green from the grass and trees were glowing. As we were getting closer to the end of the path, I looked up and could see the small plat formed structure overlooking the valley, and knew that climbing these 400 steps would be worth it. We descended out from the open and into a more excluded area covered with trees and I could hear a waterfall in the short distance. When we approached it, we are all in awe. I have never seen a waterfall as beautiful as this one. It dropped at about 25 meters into a pool of green turquoise water. As the water connected with the sand it became increasingly shallow, exposing each rock in the crystal clear water. We were told that we would come back to this waterfall at the end to have time to swim, and with that we continued and seconds later we were at the beginning of the stairs.

I climbed at a slow pace, allowing myself to focus on my breathing and try to stay aware of my surroundings, which was hard to do because I felt my eyes were glued to the ground making sure I wouldn’t step in the wrong place. Finally, I had reached the top and was greeted by my sweaty and tired classmates who had not had the chance to shake off the steps yet. The wooden platform overlooked the entire valley, exposing the path we just walked on, some houses, a small river, and endless amounts of plants and trees. It also had a view of the beach, the waves slowly breaking, creating a truly breathtaking view.

It was announced that this would be the spot for the class to take place and everyone took seats round the area. We started the discussion with vanua and its explanations from the two readings. The word is used by indigenous Fijians and upon close examination, the author of the first reading, Hao-Li Lin uncovers its various meanings. It’s seen largely as the “environment” or “a land, or region” but goes deeper than the surface into Fijian custom and social/ kinship unit of the tribal society, as well as the linkage between communities and the physical land. For me, the beautiful thing about this word and its use, is how it is also seen as the connection between the ancestors and the land, finding a more spiritual approach. It allowed me to realize the permanency of the land people are on, how they have been there many years, knowing it was where their great grandparents grew up. The roots of a community must run so deep, giving the land a sacred value. That understanding and connection feels foreign too me, even though I’ve been in the same house my entire life, I know my parents didn’t grow up there, nor did my grandparent, nor will future kids of mine. For that reason, the house I’ve been living in feels like it is just property, to build upon, alter, and sell to another family who will do the same when they need something different.

I feel lost in my connection to land, and somewhat saddened and guilty knowing that while moving from different lands throughout my Global experience, it’s not something that even crossed my mind until now. Though after this discussion and readings, getting to understand the importance of ‘vanua’, I want to continue my journey around this world seeking the knowledge of the land and respecting who it truly belongs to.

Hao-Li, L. (2015). Vanua as Environment: Conservation, Farming and development in Waitabu, Fiji (pp. 23-33; extract). Unpublished Thesis, Doctor of Philosophy, University of Pittsburgh, USA.